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Archive for August, 2009


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While Venice most certainly is the city of canals and water, it is also, logically, the city of bridges. There are more than 140 bridges in the Venice, ranging from small, quaint brickwork ones spanning narrow canals to bigger ones where boats can pass under (though sometimes requiring the passengers and driver to duck) and the regal heart of Venice, the Rialto Bridge, probably one of the most photographed icons of all Italy.

Most of these bridges have been in place for centuries. In some cases, including that of the Rialto Bridge, what you’ll see today has replaced original wooden structures. When arriving in Venice visitors tend to stop at each bridge (especially at the top, much to the annoyance of fellow ‘bridge crossers’) to take a look, snap a photograph and marvel at the picturesque scenery. But after a while the bridges become ubiquitous, one hardly notices them while walking around the city, and some residents describe them more as a hindrance than a proud part of the city heritage. I mean, having to heave a grocery bag over bridge steps can only be fun for so long.

Many of the bridges have stories attached to them. Often their names refer to a legend from long ago. The most well-known of these is probably the Ponte dei Sospir – Bridge of Sighs -  which long ago was the crossing point for convicts on their way to jail. On a more positive note there’s also a legend that says that lovers who kiss on the bridge are assured eternal love. When visiting Venice. Make your visit more interesting by seeking out these ‘bridge stories’.

Recently a new bridge has joined the family in Venice. It’s impossible to miss, as it cuts through the air across the Grand Canal near the bus stop in a vivacious curve of steel and glass. Being an architectural anomaly among the renaissance and baroque buildings and decorations around it, the  bridge was bound to draw criticism and sharp comment from all. It doesn’t help, of course, that the Ponte di Calatrava – that’s the name of the bridge – was designed by a Spanish architect named (adding insult to injury) Calatrava. There has also been reports of people sustaining injuries while crossing the bridge  because of the slippery steps.

yet in a practical way it’s made life a lot easier, eliminating long walks and vaporetto rides in order to cross the Grand Canal when coming from, or going to the rail and bus stations.

So make a mental note before your visit to notice the bridges you’re crossing – you’re most probably stepping across a colourful and interesting part of Venice history.

Venice isn’t for everyone. Critics would say it’s overcrowded, dirty, filled with smelly water, and overpriced. All of these are true to some extent or another. On the other hand it’s one of the world’s most unique, romantic, and historically rich cities in the world. So is it the kind of place you’d like to visit or not? Here are some pointers to help you decided whether to put Venice on your next European holiday itenerary.

1. You’re a romantic type. You appreciate beautiful sunsets, a good red wine, poetic places, and being and sharing an experience or place with someone special. Venice is – and has been for centuries – one big lover’s paradise. Start looking forward to that after-dinner evening stroll through the misty, quiet alleys with your loved one. It’ll be an experience you’ll never forget.

2. You’re into art, especially Rennaissance and Baroque painting, architecture and sculpture. you can wander trhrough a dozen art museums and not feel that you’re seeing the same thing over and over. Names like Tintoretto,  and xx ring a bell, and you think that if Michealangelo was alive today, that he should be president. Then Venice will be a heavenly place for you.

3. You’re scared of water, not to talk of creaky boats and dicy-looking bridges. Venice’s vaporettos – water buses – is the standard form of transport if you want to move around much. While perfectly safe, from a distance most of them look one step up from ancient tramp steamers (‘vaporetto does indeed mean ’steam boat’). Also, you’ll be intimidated by having to walk on the unprotected side of countless canals filled with rather ominous-looking, murky water. If this is you, rather visit Las Vegas.

4. You dislike cramped accommodation. Unless you’re particularly well-off, chances are you’ll be staying in a hotel room half the size you’re used to in most other parts of the world. Space is at a premium in Venice, and most hotel rooms are smallish, especially the bathrooms. While perfectly adequate, they can feel very claustrophobic especially if you’ll be sharing them with children. Rather settle for an apartment in that case.

5. You’re into photography. If you’re on your way to publishing your first coffee table book or simply want to hone your composition skills, Venice will keep you busy for weeks on end. There are endless opportunities and conditions for taking amazing photographs. Tip: Get yourself out of bed at dawn one morning and take a walk to St. Mark’s Square, before the tourists arrive.

6. The Venice alleyways and labirynthian canals are the most pleasant way to get lost… if you’re that type of person. Venice doesn’t have a street grid, so finding your way and mapping where you are isn’t always the easiest thing to do. The best way to explore Venice is simply to start walking in a certain direction and enjoying the scenery. If that doesn’t appeal to you then a guided tour or sticking to the vaporettos may be the best option.

8. This may be a bit controversial, but if I was a ten-year old in Venice, I’d be bored stiff. There are no malls, no fun rides (unless you count the vaporetto) and no movie houses. During sunny weather you may want to visit the beaches of the Lido, but only if your kids aren’t used to surfer wave coastlines. If they are, they’ll be having a good laugh at the tepid, tiny waves of the Adriatic.

The Piazza (Square) of St Mark is the central point in Venice. It’s on the bank of the Grand Canal and features Venice’s most beautiful and impressive landmarks, from the Campanile (tower) with the winged lion (Venice’s official ‘mascot’) keeping watch to the fifteen-hundred-year-old Basilica and the Doge’s (King) magnificent Palace.

Ask what people remember about St Mark’s and one of the things will be ‘crowds’. The tourist throng in St Mark’s, especially in summer, is something to be reckoned with, especially if you’re not staying for long and have to make the most of your time. Here are a few tips that will make your visit to St Mark’s more enjoyable.
View from the top of the Campanile
1. Visit St Mark’s in the early morning or late afternoon. You’ll be avoid being pushed and shoved in long lines of people waiting to enter into the buildings on the Square. If you give early enough you’ll catch the Square almost devoid of people, which in itself is a great experience, especially if you’re a photographer.

2. Before you visit the attractions on St Mark Square, you have to hand in any bags you’re carrying at a deposit point below the Clock Tower. You don’t want to fall into a queue at the Campanile only to find that out twenty minutes later.

3. Similar to any other tourist spot in the world, curios and food bought on St Mark’s Square will be much more expensive than those located five minutes’ walk from the Square.

4. An exception to the above tip is coffee at Florian’s, a historic cafe on the Square. IT was visited by many of the painters and writers that visited Venice through the years, and was once considered a hangout of the intellectuals and politicians of the city. Be prepared to pay a premium for the priviledge though…

5. Authorities are encouraging people not to feed the hundreds of pigeons that live on the Square. That’ll be hard to resist if you have children though. Small packets of bird food is on sale, making it even easier.

St Mark's Square

6. There’s a LOT to see on St Mark’s, and it’ll take you a full day to take everything there is to see in. The most visited ones are the Doge’s Palace, the Correr Museum, the Basilica and the Campanile. They’re all worth it, but can become a bit tiring, especially if you’re not that much into culture and art. If you stay long enough you can split your visit over two days.

7. There’s a famous legend about an ill-fatged Doge that landed at St Mark’s Square, and walk ashore between the two pillars only to meet his end some time later. Since then superstitious types consider it bad luck to walk inbetween the pillars. Just so you know.